Recent Projects

  • Creating a Floating shelf
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    DIY Floating shelves
  • Wooden Baby Stroller Photos
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    Building a Wooden Doll Stroller
  • Child's Shopping Cart Build
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    Building a Child’s Shopping Cart
  • How to use a moisture meter
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    Wood Moisture and Furniture Building
  • Gift ideas for your woodworker
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    11 Gift Ideas for Woodworkers and Makers each under $70

TAKE A MOMENT AND SMELL THE FRESH CUT LUMBER

Everyone who wanders into Roger’s shop, automatically stops at the door and takes a deep breathe. It’s amazing how many memories are stirred up by the smell of a wood shop. Whether it reminds them of their granddad’s shop or a walk in the woods, everyone has a story to share just from walking in.

But then they look around at the beauty of the fresh-cut lumber and feel the smoothness of the latest project on the bench and they know that new memories are built here everyday.

Bayne Custom Woodworking based in Mt. Juliet, Tennessee designs and builds furniture and high quality children’s toys in the Middle Tennessee area. From the beginning of a project design, to selecting the wood at one of our local mills to completion in the workshop, owner, Roger Bayne is there making every measure and cut. 

Barnwood Coat RackWe’d love to build something special for you!   

The wood for this project came from an old corn crib on a family farm. We were excited to put this together for them and preserve the family history. Do you have a photo or an idea of something you’d like for your family? Tell us about it.

SHARE YOUR IDEA HERE

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DIY Floating shelves

February 18, 2019
There is no real mystery to floating shelves. You need something attached to the wall with supports that the actual shelf will slide into hiding the support attached to the wall. Or you can use that support as part of the shelf. Here is how I did it. Disclaimer up front: I purchased a Festool domino 700 for the purpose of building tables. So I decided to expand my horizons and use it to create floating shelves. While this build will use this tool, I will suggest another option at the end of this post. The principles will apply to both this main option and the one at the bottom. Because I am using the 700, I am using the 12mm x 90 Domino for great support and extension into the wood. I have used 2” cedar but for this post I will use 1×8 pine purchased at a brick front store. Step 1: Find a stud in your wall To start it is very important that you know where at least one stud is located in your wall. I use Zircon StudSensor HD55 that can be purchased at Home Depot with the link on right side bar. Knowing where the stud (s) will determine where your domino holes will be placed. In my case I know my stud is 8” from the left end of where I will be installing the shelf. Because I only have one stud in this range, I will use wall anchors for the other two wall connectors. Step 2: How to know where to place the dominos Now that you know where your stud is you can determine where your dominos will be located. I used 3 dominos with the center one being normal size and the other 2 being 3mm wider. This allows for a slight bit of movement for minor adjustments when installing. Because my stud is 8” from the left of where I want to place the shelf I am placing one domino in the center and 1 each 4” from each end. I use my speed square to mark a line entirely across the wood for reference. Step 3: Setting the holes with the Festool I set the Festool 700 to 70mm depth and height to 26mm and cut all three holes from the back of the shelf. Step 4: Ripping the shelf Take the shelf to the table saw and setting your rip fence at 2 ½” and rip the back of the shelf off. You will end up with a board 1 ½” x 2 ½” x the length of your shelf with holes all the way through the back. This is the piece you will attach to the wall. These boards will go back together exactly as you ripped them so I always put a letter or a number on the insides for both boards and make sure they cover each other when I put them back together. Step 5: Second set of holes Take the left

Building a Wooden Doll Stroller

January 22, 2019
The perfect gift for a little girl Our second granddaughter is very, very tiny. When she was born she reminded me of a fragile tea cup so her nickname is “Teacup”. We needed something that matched her size and personality. She is in love with her babies therefore building a wooden doll stroller was a perfect gift for her. *DISCLOSURE: Some of the links below are affiliate links. If you chose to click through and make a purchase I will earn a commission but there is no additional cost to you. It helps compensates the business for the time spent creating these posts. THANK YOU! Starting with plans from Ana White Ana White plans have worked well in the past for me and I figured she would have something to use as a starting point for building a wooden doll stroller. Her baby stroller / pram plans were just what we needed. Choosing the best wood for toys Poplar is my favorite wood for toy builds because I get the lumber at a reasonable price from a rough cut lumber yard. But it also means that I have to do a little more work to get the correct widths that I need for projects. For building a wooden doll stroller the plans called for plywood which comes in much wider sections but because I’m using poplar, I needed to piece together 2 pieces in order to get the correct width. First, I cut the 2 sections of poplar to length. Then I used pocket holes to attach them and give me the width I needed. Transferring the plans to the wood After drawing out all the straight lines, we used a flexible ruler to draw the curve and connect the top and bottom points. There are a number of things I use in the shop when it comes to curves including my imagination. I have been known to use buckets, coffee cans, soda cans, etc. This wooden doll stroller gave me plenty of opportunities to use all my options! Cutting the pieces To cut the sides, I used my Grizzly band saw.  I cut on the outside of the lines. Then clean them up with my @ridgidpowertools oscillating sander. To cut the width of the final pieces of the wooden doll stroller I used my @ridgidpowertools table saw. I then used the same saw to cut the angles needed for the foot and head piece. These angles allow the pieces to fit the bottom properly. The doll stroller handles were cut to length. Then I had to figured out where to drill the handle holes on the upright pieces of the stroller base. I clamped them together and used my drill press with the 1” forstner bit to drill the holes for the handles. Smoothing edges with a round over bit and hand sanding When all the pieces were cut and sanded I used my router table with a round over bit to round over all the edges. I then hand sanded all of the

Building a Child’s Shopping Cart

January 7, 2019
Wooden Toys for Kids There is nothing more I enjoy building in the shop than toys. Having 4 grandchildren allows me to build for birthdays, random visits and especially for Christmas. I remember the first Christmas gift, for our first granddaughter, was a set of cedar building blocks. At the time she was 6 weeks old and spending her first Christmas with us here in Tennessee. Since then there have been many sets of blocks and other toys built. It’s been fun to build for our grandchildren, and for other children as well. Choosing the Project The process starts with asking the kids what they want, usually happens during our annual family vacation in September. I really need to get these answers sooner as they get older and the gifts become more elaborate and time consuming. Finding the Plans For our eldest granddaughter, she showed me of a grocery cart and asked if I could build it. I was able to find a nice set of plans to use here. These plans were done well and I was willing to support this small business by purchasing the set. I found them to be direct, well thought out and complete. Every year I try to save up vacation days so I can get Fridays in the shop too. That really helps me complete the Christmas gifts and customer projects. Choosing Materials The grocery cart plans called for plywood. But I purchase my wood from a local lumber mill. I had plenty of rough poplar on hand so I used that for the sides. Because the poplar is just under 8” wide rough and the sides are 15 ¾” I needed to glue 2 pieces together. I used pocket holes to join them and adjusted the size just a bit so I only needed 2 pieces. The sides ended up being a finished size of 15 ¼”.   I knew going into the project I was going to paint. Using pocket holes would not cause an issue because the paint would cover them. However I still needed to fill the holes. In the past, I have used wood putty. I decided to step up the game this time and use dowels to fill the pocket holes. I used my band saw and I cut 3/8” dowels into 2” lengths. Adding a little glue, I used my rubber mallet to tap the dowels into each hole. I then used my double edge bear saw from Vaughan & Bushnell to flush cut the dowels prior to sanding. Using the plans provided I created all the straight lines for the cart. Then used an old plastic container to draw the circle for the bottoms and the very top. I used my Grizzly band saw to cut the sides. I left the lines in order to clean them up with my @ridgidpowertools oscillating sander. Challenges The dowels were a challenge to mark and assemble. First I needed to drill them out. I was using ½ dowels so I

Wood Moisture and Furniture Building

December 11, 2018
How to know if your wood is dry enough to use on your project I am always concerned with the amount of moisture in the wood before I begin the process of building a project.  Wood moves as it is, but if there is too much moisture, your joints won’t stay matched, the finish won’t dry correctly and the cuts you make today will be completely different tomorrow. Air Dried or Kiln Dried, what is the difference? Air dried is just that. Let it sit in a shed or barn or even outside and let the wind and sun, dry it out. This process can take quite some time so patience is a virtue. The other option is kiln dry. Kiln dried lumber is heated to remove the moisture with a goal of having 6 – 8% moisture content when finished. The lumber purchased at most brick and mortar lumber stores is kiln dried prior to the store receiving it. How to use a Moisture Meter My goal is to get wood as close to 8% moisture content prior to building. Because I purchase rough lumber from a lumber mill, I have to let it dry in my enclosed wood rack or in the shop to get to that 8% moisture content. I own a moisture meter that allows me to measure the amount of moisture in the wood. The meter I use is a General MMD4E meter that can be found at this Amazon link Below is a demonstration of the meter being used to show the moisture in 2” cedar that has been drying for a couple of weeks. Below is a demonstration of some 3” black walnut that I have just acquired and is nowhere near dry enough to work with. Which is best? Air or Kiln Dried? There are lots of opinions on using Air dried or Kiln dried wood. Which one is the right one? I think both depending on your project. I always try to keep an inventory of rough poplar and oak in my rack and shop, air drying for future projects. But if I need to turn a project around quickly, then buying wood from the brick front store or calling the mill to kiln dry it for me is always an option. Why I buy rough lumber from a local mill The greatest reason I purchase rough lumber from the mill is because of the price. I can purchase an actual 1x8x96 oak at a board foot price of $1.20 per board foot or $9.60 per board. Where a nominal, 1x8x96, piece of oak at the brick front store is $4.63 per board foot or $37.04 per board. Nominal vs. Actual size lumber – This is a great article available of the Nelson Blog is a great explanation. Basic-rules-of-dimensional-lumber-nominal-vs-actual Acclimating Lumber Does it need to acclimate to your shop before building? Can you just bring it into the shop and start building? These are questions that really do not have a

11 Gift Ideas for Woodworkers and Makers each under $70

November 18, 2018
Our favorite tools that make every project easier (and safer too!) With Black Friday soon to be upon us I wanted to put together a list of 11 items under $70.00 (it was supposed to be 10, but I couldn’t decide which to leave off!) that I use on a regular basis in my wood shop. Each of these items will make great stocking stuffers, secret Santa gifts or just something you can purchase for yourself to make your shop more efficient and safer. I have personally used all these items except the tape measure. I bought that for my son-in-law who uses it on a regular basis. I find each of these items serve multiple purposes for me in the shop to keep me safe, provide my accurate measurements and give me that extra pairs of hands that I need. You can find Amazon links below that will take you directly to the item. *DISCLOSURE: The links below are affiliate links. If you chose to click through and make a purchase I will earn a commission but there is no additional cost to you. It helps compensates the business for the time spent creating these posts. THANK YOU! SAFETY FIRST GRR-RIPPER 3D Pushblock for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws, and Jointers by MICROJIG – $59.00 Safety is essential in the shop and these GRR-RIPPERS keep tablesaw blades, router bits and Jointer blades away from my fingers. No shop should be without them. I Have 2 and use them daily. 3M Peltor Optime 105 Over the Head Earmuff, Ear Protectors, Hearing Protection, NRR 30 dB $19.95 Don’t let the noise of your machinery ruin your hearing. I use these while running all the tools in my shop to protect my hearing. They fit well with safety glasses and are comfortable to wear for hours. MEASURING TOOLS Kreg KMA2900 Multi-Mark Multi-Purpose Marking and Measuring Tool Model – $42.11  Great things come in small sizes. I carry this little wonder in my apron  for every project. It helps me make sure that my wood is all the same thickness when coming out of the planer. I use it to set the depth of my dado cuts. FastCap PSSR25 25 foot Lefty/Righty Measuring Tape – $9.99 This tape measure is great for someone that has issues with the smaller measurements such as 1/8, 3/8, 5/8, etc.. Left or Right handed, this item really measures up. 12 in Centerpoint Rule – $13.95 I picked this up on a whim while walking through a wood store one day and I have never regretted it. I find it hard to determine the center point of wood at times and this finds center every time without failure and with great ease. Find the full measurement on the top of the ruler and find the same number on the bottom and that is center. NO ONE EVER HAS ENOUGH CLAMPS Large Rockler Bandy Clamps, Pair  – $24.99 I could never figure out what the fuss was for these until

Keeping the dust down while routering.

November 9, 2018
A review of the Dewalt dwp615 The Problem Using a router inside the shop makes for a dusty shop. In the past when using my hand held trim or plunge router I would roll the projects out of the shop to avoid the mess. While this is fine in good weather, when it gets cold or rains it’s not an option so I use the tool inside and clean up the mess afterwards. The Solution I located a dust collection for my Dewalt dwp611 trim router and the dnp612 plunge base unit on Amazon and purchased the dnp615 and the dnp616. See my YouTube channel for the actual test and review. I tested them both with cedar because it is a wood that makes the most dust in my shop. Installation was easier than expected and fit into both bases. Using the trim base I was able to use the round over bit without any issues to achieve a clean cut and eliminate 85-90% of the dust. I did find the unit attached to the plunge base would not allow round over bits to extend deep enough to make a good cut, but with a straight bit it works great. Both Amazon links are available are below I would say this is a successful purchase and has eliminated the majority of the dust put out by the router. *DISCLOSURE: Some of the links below are affiliate links. If you chose to click through and make a purchase I will earn a commission but there is no additional cost to you. It helps compensates the business for the time spent creating these posts. THANK YOU!    

Children’s Cedar Building Blocks

October 28, 2018
Creating a classic toy: One of my favorite shop projects is to create children’s cedar building blocks from rough Tennessee red cedar. These came about after I built my first Adirondack chairs and I had a large amount of scrap wood left over. Our first granddaughter had just been born and we decided to build a set of building blocks. Since that first set of blocks was made I’ve delivered hundreds to young children all across the country. Hearing the stories of the kids playing with these for hours and seeing the joy on their faces is what it’s all about. *DISCLOSURE: Some of the links below are affiliate links. If you chose to click through and make a purchase I will earn a commission but there is no additional cost to you. It helps compensates the business for the time spent creating these posts. THANK YOU! Start with Rough Cut Cedar These blocks start with rough 2×4 and 2×6 cedar lumber purchased from my local cedar mill. I use my Ridgid Power Tools Surface Planer to bring the wood into smooth milled lumber. Over to the SuperMax Drum Sander to sand the wood as much as possible. The goal is make sure the wood is as soon as glass. Then the wood goes into my Ridgid table saw to be milled into ¾ x ¾, 2 x 2 and ¾ x 2. Once the pieces are cut to proper width its over to the Grizzly Band saw to cut the blocks to length. I tried to do this on my sliding miter saw, but found I could not control the blocks well enough and the saw blade would cause them to either get jammed or fly across the shop and be ruined. Block Sizes These blocks come in a number of rectangle and square sizes. ¾ x ¾ x 2”, 4” and 6” ¾ x 2 x2’, 4” and 6” 1 ½ x1 ½ x1 ½ 2 x2 x 2”, 6” Final Step by Hand The last step is to take them to the Ridgid Oscillating Sander and round over the edges and corners to keep them safe. Because we handle them multiple times it gives is the opportunity to clear out any misfits and chipped blocks. Watch the process here. At one point we were coating them with a finish used for salad bowls but they were hard to dry without leaving ridges from the drying racks or drips that needed to be sanded off. It was recommended/suggested by a number of mothers that we not put anything on them. The beauty of these blocks is they hold the smell and are safe to play with. They provide hours of fun when stacking and building. I have watched the little ones learning how to pick things up grab and hold them. Available to purchase on Etsy Interested in having your own set? We have a limited amount available for Christmas 2018 with or without the hand made wooden

Farmhouse Table and Bench with an added Curve

October 24, 2018
The Story of the Farmhouse Table with a Race Track While working my day job one of my managers came to my desk and said “I need your help”. Come to find out she ordered a farmhouse table and bench on Etsy. However the person she ordered it from fell off the face of the earth and left her without a table or her money (Etsy made good on it for her). The reason she ordered the table was because of the three legged bench. She has a young son and was concerned that he would turn over a two legged bench. This one appeared to give her the stability that she wanted. My reply, “I can help!” After seeing the picture of the table she ordered I told her to give me a few days and I could find her an alternative. So I went out to one of my trusted bloggers, Rogue Engineer and found the table I wanted to build. Please check out his site and follow him on social media. After getting her approval of the style and layout, we agreed on a price and some minor adjustments to the plans. She only wanted a 7 foot table and she only wanted one bench, but that bench needed a third leg. So I made the size adjustments and quoted the table. Now the “Curve” A couple of days after we agreed on the project my client called and said she had an idea on the way to work. She needed to find a way to get her son to the dinner table. “Can I add a 1½” wide by 1/8th inch deep race track around the top of the table?” After I caught my breath and recovered I gave her some alternative ideas to avoid creating a race track into what I knew was going to be a beautiful table. She was convinced this is what she wanted, so I said well, this is why we call ourselves Bayne CUSTOM Woodworking. So I agreed and then the adventure began. The Build Instead of recreating what Rogue Engineer already did I will refer you to his free plans on his site. See the link in the opening paragraph.  He will provide the materials list needed. Below I will outline the changes I made and how I built the table and bench. While not huge changes, there are some that I made to meet the client’s requests and some to add my own unique style. The plans call for a table that is 110” while I made mine to fit the client request of 84”. Because I trimmed my boards I ended up with a 40” wide top instead of a 42” wide. She wanted only one bench so I made an 80” bench with 3 legs instead of the 2 legged bench. Let me also state up front that I rarely, if ever, use pine to build anymore, but I did use it on the job because

The Family of Adirondack Chairs

October 4, 2018
Adirondack Chairs in Tennessee Cedar Wood Growing up in Central New York and spending years in the Adirondack Mountains, I grew up seeing all types of Adirondack chairs. But it was not until I moved to middle Tennessee that I attempted to build Adirondack chairs myself. I found plans that gave me the basic design to build the adult chairs. I made some adjustments in order to fit them into my style and the type of wood that I have available. I found a cedar mill within an hour of my shop that allows me to purchase rough cut lumber. Because of the nature of rough lumber I am buying wood that is actually thicker, wider and longer than wood purchased at a brick front store.  Where a nominal 2”x 4”x 96” bought at a local lumber store is actually 1.5 x 3.5 x 96. The cedar I purchase is 2 ¼ x 4 ¼ x 102 inches. Once run through the surface planer to clean up the roughness and sanded, I am able to build with actual 2” x 4” or 2” x 6” lumber. This makes the chairs heavier, sturdier and more durable. Because of the size of the wood I assemble the legs and main supports with 3/8” carriage bolts. The arms, seat boards and backs are all assembled with 2” to 3” exterior screws. I predrill all the holes prior to inserting any screws. I do this because cedar, or any wood for that matter, can split at any time. The actual finished chair stands 38” tall x 39” long and 33” wide. They weigh about 35 lbs. and can seat a large adult very well but also comfortable for my tiny framed wife. The rise of the seat from the knees to the ground for your feet is 13 ½ inches. The seat reclines backward naturally but not so much that it is hard to stand from a seated position. The back is curved to support the natural curve of your back allowing for a more comfortable fit. The back is 32” tall to support even a taller person. The arms have been described as looking like whales so they are narrow where they fasten to the back of the chair and wide in the front for a cup, a book or even a laptop if you choose to work outside. *DISCLOSURE: Some of the links below are affiliate links. If you chose to click through and make a purchase I will earn a commission but there is no additional cost to you. It helps compensates the business for the time spent creating these posts. THANK YOU! Child’s Chair: The smaller child chairs are added to match the adult chairs to finish the family. These also are made with rough cedar milled and sanded to size to make the chairs sturdy. As with the adult chairs the wood will be thicker, wider and stronger than nominal wood. I use all true 1” lumber for the

Oak Book Cabinet Pegged (no screws)

August 1, 2018
Taking cabinet building to the next level I wanted to take another step in my building and see if I could build a cabinet without the use of screws. My wife found the plans in an old Woodsmith Magazine and asked me to build the largest bookcase of the set. My plan was to build the entire cabinet using dowels instead of screws, dado slots instead of pocket hole joinery and biscuit joints. Using rough oak purchased from a local lumber mill, I milled and sized the lumber to the specifications to create this book cabinet with 5 shelves. It was time to replace a number of older pine book cases in the house. Instead of using the traditional pocket hole joinery, the sides, shelves, doors and face frame were all joined using 3/8” dowels,biscuit joints, dados and glue. I used tempered glass for the doors for safety which I was able to purchase locally. The glass vendor recommended using silicone caulk to secure each pane before applying a few small mirror catches on all the sides. The doors were each hung with 3 Ball-Tip Full Back-to-Back Wrap-Around Inset Hinges. Finished with Minwax English Chestnut and homemade wiping polyurethane, this cabinet will stand the test of time and hopefully become a keepsake that is passed down through generations. *DISCLOSURE: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you chose to click through and make a purchase I will earn a commission but there is no additional cost to you. It helps compensates the business for the time spent creating these posts. THANK YOU!

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